Friday, August 14, 2009

How I Figured Out How To Roast A Leg of Goat

The first time I tried to cook with goat, it was HORRIBLE!!! I'd never prepared goat until a few weeks ago when I fearlessly listed it as the entree for our Polynesian meal. As our entree, I not only had to figure out how to make it, I had to make it awesome.


My second attempt at making goat, a leg roast is coated with papaya seeds to tenderize the meat.

When my first attempt (braised goat in coconut and rum) came out of the oven, I was staring at lumps of grey meat bathed in a curdled gray sauce. This was definitely NOT awesome! Tasting it only made it worse. I hate throwing food away, but that was the only place fit for this dish! I didn't take a picture because I was too stressed out and embarrassed, but I wish I would have because it was DISGUSTING!

I knew goat was a lean meat which could be tough, so it would be best to slow cook it with a liquid to help it keep moist, which was the impetus of my first attempt. For an island effect, I chose rum and coconut milk. Well, I'm still not sure what part of the body those cuts came from, but they were tough grisly and grotesque. The rum was not acidic enough to help tenderize the meat and coconut milk, upon continuous cooking, apparently curdles. I guess goat has a tendency of turning gray when cooked and the white cooking sauce, surely didn't help its color. It looked horrible and tasted disgusting. This recipe SUCKED! I was a bit stressed out.

It seemed the obstacles I needed to work around for this recipe was:
  • keeping the meat tender and avoiding tough chewy meat
  • avoiding the gray color which is unappetizing!
To tackle the main problem of tough meat, I decided I needed was a good cut from a real butcher. Although I'd never done one before, not even with lamb, a leg roast would probably be the best way to go. I found a great spot in the warehousing district and picked up a fresh leg of young goat which would be more tender with a milder taste then an older goat. An average leg roast from a young goat (leg in) weighs about 4-5 lbs.



After my last fiasco, I wasn't taking any chances with texture problems, so I decided to marinate it overnight AND apply a dry rub for a couple of hours before cooking to ensure a moist tender roast. I had previously marinated my first attempt in rum only, which I figured wouldn't be enough. I decided to add fresh lime juice which would pump up the acidity, and I added olive oil, to help infuse some fat into the lean goat meat.



But now color. Gray meat just looks gross. If I was doing a red wine marinade that would give it color, but I wanted to stick with tropical flavors (rum, lime etc). I started thinking of other things I could use for color, and I finally thought of one of nature's most powerful natural dyes: beets! Although not authentic to Polynesia, I added beets to the marinade to give this meat some color.


Leg roast for the event on the grill. You can see the ginger, garlic and lardoons sticking out in areas around the roast.

It worked. The morning after its marination, I found what looked like a tandoori leg of goat! Even more so, it was purple! Well, I thought the meat would definitely not be gray. Ha!

I had also been instructed by my Aunt to cut away the thick white fat around the edges of the leg and reserve them. I now pulled them out of the fridge. With my paring knife, I cut slits an inch or so into the flesh of the roast and inserted the fatty deposits, which we can be all fancy and refer to as "lardoons". I also stuffed some garlic cloves and ginger into the pockets with the lardoons to infuse a bit of awesome. I finished by applying my dry rub, which used papaya seeds as a binder. I wrapped the pup up and put in the fridge, to chill for 3 hours or so.



To trap all the juices which I had been obsessing about infusing into the meat, I decided to sere the roast first. You can start the roast in the oven at a really high heat like 450 and turn down to 300. But I wasn't sure that was enough. I wanted to make sure this meat SEARED.



SO Ira and I set up our small BBQ with a huge pile of coals red HOT! By starting the roast off on the BBQ, not only were we able to sear it, but also infuse a bit of smokey flavor and give the surface of the roast a nice blackened look. I gave each side 5-10 minutes on the grill (15-20 min. total).



After the grill, I inserted the meat thermometer into the thickest part of the meat. Putting my blackened purple leg roast back into a roaster pan over some chopped onions to keep it from burning to the bottom, I quickly got it into the oven at about 325 to finish cooking. I spooned some of the marinade over the top for good measure. At this point, I just waited with fingers tightly crossed until the thermometer registered 130.



Roasts will continue to cook after its taken out of the oven, so by removing it at 130, I could ensure to end up at my preferred temp of a medium rare 140 degrees. I thought the roast would take a few hours as did the recipes I had read online, so I was a bit surprised when I hit 130 after only 90 minutes. I guess the BBQ really put a jump start on the cooking. I took the roast out of the oven, and "tented" it by loosely covering it up with aluminum foil to rest, about 10-20 minutes.



When I finally carved into the roast, I was jumping for joy. It was the most moist, delicious meat I had ever seen and tasted. The beautiful mild flavor was not overpowered by the marinade. Although purple on the outside, the meat had a delicate pinkish color which only added to its appeal. Thank you beets! A sigh of relief, I had my entree recipe figured out.



It was a close gross call, but the dish we ended up with was filled with absolute goaty awesomeness!

Here's the recipe.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Polynesian Pictures: Fiafia Food Fotos



Knocking on wood almost always works, (knock on wood), and I give my superstitions total credit for helping to keep the weather at bay so our collaborative Polynesian supper club event could go off without a hitch. The 90 degree weather at least insured it was sultry! We, at Forkable and Being Totally Sweet In Chicago, promised to create a paradise of authentic dishes recreated with a splash of bygone glamor for the present pallet. I think we delivered.



Our usually drab urban gangway was transformed into a sumptuous tropical retreat. Silky curtains blocked the sidewalk and the alley, golden lights twinkling overhead and surfaces festooned with tropical flowers and candles helped create a magical intimate effect.



A true collaborative effort, Ira and I worked tirelessly over this event, to make sure all the details were perfect. Our courses were ambitious, heavily researched and painstakingly tested. You've seen the menu. Here's the food.

Appetizer: Masa Shrimp Bun steamed in a Banana Leaf
served with a Sesame dipping sauce and accompanied by a freshly pickled quail's egg.



Unwrapping the banana leaf revealed a bun of rice flour and corn meal surrounding the smokey sweet filling of diced shrimp and bacon. The bun was nicely complimented by the salty sesame oil dipping sauce. A freshly pickled quail egg helped finish this taste sensation with a bit of tart sweetness and a smooth creamy texture.

Soup Course: Lemongrass Leek Consume served with Papaya Seed Crusted Pork
garnished with fresh papaya and lime.


This course fused preparation and presentation to create a fresh delightful soup in which each ingredient complimented each other without losing itself in the chorus.



Bowls of ingredients were brought out to each guest and the dish was finished with a steaming broth poured into the bowls table-side to create a fresh fusion of smell and taste.

First Course: Peruvian Corvina Ceviche with Champagne Vinegar infused with Earl Grey
served on a fresh bed of epazote with a salad garnish of fresh fruits.



Ceviche, a technique of "cooking" fish in citris and vinegar, creates a supple delicate texture lacking in dishes which have been heated. This dish married the mildness of this Pacific seabass with the tart ceviche marinade and the fresh sweet fruits to create a light cool flavor perfect for a sultry summer night. (We just "married" three things there. Oh well, theres no problem with bigamy in food)

Palate cleanser: Sauvignon Blanc Sorbet with Ginger and Lemon



A light crisp spoonful of icy cold sorbet helped cleanse the palette and cool the the body in preparation for the entree.

Entree: Roasted Leg of Goat served with a Coconut Beet Sauce
sided with Guava Plantain chips topped with a Manioc Puree.



To prepare this goat, it was marinated for 16 hours, brined in a dry rub for 3 hours, placed over a hot BBQ to sere and finished off in the oven. The result was a sumptuously moist roast complete with the delicate sweet flavor of young goat and complimented with the smokey flavor of the grill. The salty plantain chips, given a rub of sweet guava paste were finished with a buttery puree of manioc (the local word for yucca). Our local word for this was DELISH!

Dessert: Samoan Po'a
garnished with Lemon Balm, and sided with a light sea salt cracker.



Samoan Po'a is a medley of fresh fruits including mango, papaya, pineapple and banana , thickened and baked to create a custard like texture. The thin crispy cracker created an excellent counterpoint to the sweet smooth sensation presented in this final dish.

Oh, is that it? Well... not quite. No Polynesian dinner could be said to be complete without at least one tiki drink!

After Dinner Appertif: The Beachcomber



The Beachcomber, a take off a traditional daiquiri, features rum, fresh lime, a bit of tripple sec and a few other secret ingredients. This was solely Ira's mix, so if anyone wants the recipe, you'll have to check with him!

All the photos in this post (with the exception of the blurry second picture) were beautifully shot by Andrew Golding. Check out the full flickr set.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Fiafia Final Preperations

We're in the heat of it with our final preparations. Literally. Its 90 degrees outside, and who knows what in the kitchen. But I can take the heat, so I will (and have to) keep plugging away. We want to serve dinner outside, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed for it to cool down and for the 50% chance of thunderstorms to pass us by...I'll also knock on wood for good measure. If our luck goes bad, I've got the AC on in the house as a backup. Oh well, consider this sultry island living.

Here is a copy of the final menu with all my last minute changes. Pictures and recipes to follow, I promise!

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Papaya Smoothie

My current obsession for papaya seeds has left me with tons of papaya fruit with the middles scraped out. Its hot outside and I've got tons of fruit. What a predicament. I'm sure I can find something to do with it! Luckily, my blender tapped me on the shoulder to give me a quick hint. IT'S SMOOTHIE TIME!!



Papaya and Mango Smoothie
  • 2 papayas
  • 1 large mango
  • 1 can of coconut milk
  • lychees: optional
I know you don't need directions, you just cut the fruit apart and mix it together! You can make it any ratio of fruit you want. I had a lot of papaya, so I was able to make a whole pitcher. I've been pouring it out and adding a bit of white wine or sugar water to thin it down a bit. One way or the other I've been having fun.

So this post isn't a complete waste, here's a video on how to cut a mango. You can skip to the 35 second mark to skip all the mango chef's credentials. ENJOY!

Monday, August 3, 2009

Forkable Food Fixations: Papaya Seeds



I always find myself becoming obsessed with a new food which I then shove into every recipe I make. Last winter it was toasting spices in oil, recently I've been putting sumac into everything from soups to on top of my bagels. While doing research for our Polynesian meal, I discovered the amazing properties of the papaya seed. And now... I'm hooked.

"What can you use papaya seeds for", you ask? Well, lets show you in a bulleted list. Papaya seeds:
**Ok, well only proven on monkeys and mice, but still. Interesting.

Crunching into a fresh seed releases a tart bitter flavor which is nice and fresh especially with the mellow sweet papaya flavor of the pulpy flesh surrounding the hard inner core. Its so good, I've been integrating into all my sample recipes for our Polynesian fest.


papaya seeds used as a tenderizer on striped bass ceviche and for a leg of goat.

I remember back when I found the slimy seeds to be an annoyance when cutting into a ripe papaya, but now, I've been buying the fruit just for the seeds. Now the question is what can I do with all this left over fruit??

Friday, July 31, 2009

Don't Do The Dishes: Banana Bread in Pork Roaster

Waste not, want not. I believe that. Also, I can be lazy. These are the pillars of this post.



I've been testing recipes for our Polynesian supper club coming up next weekend. As part of our soup course, I need to prepare a roast pork shoulder with a papaya seed rub. This past Monday, I was experimenting with my recipe. And I was left over with a glass baking dish with some delicious drippings and grease. I swear, although its horrible for you, there is almost nothing which smells and tastes as delicious as pork fat. You think there is...prove it!


Pork shoulder roast with papaya and sea salt rub. Soooo good!

Anyway, I also had two bananas going bad which I needed to use up. I decided to make banana bread. But...I only have one loaf sized pan and it was currently being used with the small test pork roast. Hmmm....


Yes, I had two bananas, but I already smashed one before I thought to take their pictures. Oh well.

To be lazy, I don't like doing dishes. (WHO DOES??) To waste not, I wanted to use both the delicious pork flavor on the glass dish and the bananas which were going bad. Why not put them together!! I decided to make a banana bread and just put the batter right into the glass dish once the pork roast was done!


A detail of the caramelized pork drippings on the glass dish (left) and the batter in the pork fat (right).

I left some of the pork grease in the bottom and put my banana bread batter right into the dish to bake and fuse with the caramelized porky yum.

The result: banana bread with a slight hint of the savory salty sweet flavor of pork. I also added a lemon glaze. Delish!

Here's the basic banana bread I used:

Basic Banana Bread


  • 2 brown bananas
  • 1/2 c. butter
  • 3/4 c. sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tsp salt*
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp allspice
  • 1/4 tsp cloves
  • 3/4 c. sour cream
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1 tsp whiskey
Lemon Glaze
  • 1 c. confectioners sugar
  • 2-3 tbs lemon juice



  1. Preheat oven to 350.

  2. Mash bananas in a bowl.

  3. Cream butter and sugar together with a stand or hand mixer until light and fluffy.

  4. Add eggs 1 at a time to butter and sugar and mix.

  5. Mix dry ingredients together.

  6. Add to butter/sugar/eggs and mix together.

  7. Add bananas, sour cream, vanilla and whiskey.

  8. Pour into your pan greased loaf pan (the pork fat is not manditory).



  9. Bake until tests clean with knife or skewer test. About 45 - 60 minutes.

  10. Prepare glaze by mixing together two ingredients.

  11. Spread glaze over cooled loaf.



  12. Eat it, obviously!

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Forkable Fiafia Menu


Dinner jacket and boufant encouraged, but not required. Photo: Vintage Vegas c/o BTSIC

The menu for our Polynesian Fiafia fest fuses traditional Oceanic recipes with contemporary style, combining the best ingredients, flavors to bring you a paradise of authentic dishes recreated with a splash of bygone glamor for the present pallet. The word "fiafia", used throughout the Pacific Islands, can mean celebration, get-together, and happy. Our fiafia will combine all of these, with a discerning splash of kitsch which leaves the tacky tiki at the door.
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Our Polynesian Fiafia Menu
presented by Forkable and BTSIC

Appetizer
Pickled Quail Egg Dumpling Steamed in a Banana Leaf
served with a ginger sake dipping sauce

Soup Course
Lemongrass Leek Consume served with Papaya Seed Crusted Pork
finished a garnish of fresh papaya and lime zest

First Course
White Fish Ceviche with Earl Gray-infused Champagne Vinegar
served with a salad garnish of fresh fruit and sweet basil

Entree
Rum and Coconut Braised Goat
served with manioc puree and sided with guava plantain chips

Dessert
Samoan Po'a
accompanied by a sea salt cracker finished with a garnish of mint and lime
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This event is BYOB. As always our supper club events are hosted in an intimate urban space and seats are extremely limited so reserve your spot right away!